Oh Canada
After a lot of prodding and requesting to blog about our travels and adventures, I decided to take the plunge. Why not? I love to share even the minuscule details because they usually end up my favorite parts of the trip, like almost getting squashed by three 100-foot pine trees, or eating jerky while taking pictures of a bear (but seriously, don't do that!)
A Week Too Soon
The girls and I decided to take a trip to Banff, Alberta, Canada, June 2017. We went the first week of June because we wanted to miss the summer crowds, but in hindsight, it may have been a week too early. We were fortunate enough to be there the day the road to Moraine Lake from Lake Louise opened up for the summer (the one they close down so the wolves can have open range in the winter without human contact...yeah, that one.) We went up to wander and found that Lake Louise was 60% covered by these large chunks of ice and the banks were dry. I had to rearrange my entire itinerary because most of the hikes I had planned were still closed.
We Felt Safe
Surprisingly, driving from Calgary (YYC) to Banff was really easy. I want to say is was about an hour of the most scenic roadways you'll come across to actually get to Banff. They have the highway basically caged off so wildlife doesn't waltz into the roadways. Even a scared driver would feel comfortable on their highways. They've also built natural bridges over the highway where we saw numerous bears, deer, elk and even a bald eagle. The eagle was fleeting but you absolutely knew you were upon one when you saw it sitting at the top of the trees with its beautiful bold coloring. And I have to say, we were "that tourist" that came to a screeching halt every time we saw a bear. Even on the highway. I'm ashamed to admit that but this place really pulls you in. Lucky for us, there was little traffic and I had six other women keeping an eye out for traffic around me.
Canmore Bliss
We lodged up in Canmore for the week, which is about a 10 minute drive to the town of Banff. It's a little cheaper and still has the CUTEST downtown center I've ever seen. The Nordic Center is also in Canmore so if you're into that, stay here. Rob was a great host and we would go back in a heartbeat and stay at his place. It was centrally located and in the same parking lot as a full grocery store, pizza parlor and beer and wine store. The town square had everything else you could ever want or need on vacation, including delicious drinks at this patio bar and grill, The Wood Restaurant and Lounge. The girls are all beer and margarita drinkers, so I opted for a frozen peach bellini and WOW was it not only beautiful to the eye but amazing going down.
I could not even fathom that this place was real. And alive. And intensely wild.
We did manage to make it back to Louise and Moraine by Friday of the same week to see it fully melted with stunning turquoise blue water shining back at us under the cloudy, rain-filled sky.
We then made our way to the Chateau for lunch and proceeded to divulge in the best cheesesteak and poutine we've ever had at the stunning Lakeview Lounge. We lucked out and they were able to seat us without a reservation but you should definitely call ahead. #notetoself Also, those glorious window seats are reserved for hotel guests only, but any seat here is VIP if you ask me.
Hiking
We did manage to find a few hikes that were open so early in the season. Here are the list of hikes we entertained:
- Consolation Lakes - Lake Louise - moderate only due to the inclines and rugged snow we had to cross where the path had been frozen over.
- Hamilton Falls @ Emerald Lake in Yoho National Park - Steep and short but there are hidden waterfalls and views for days. Definitely worth the work.
- Emerald Lake in Yoho National Park - a leisurely walk around the lake and the avalanche path, partly shaded. Beautiful scenery.
- Johnston Canyon Lower Falls - Banff - moderate only due to the path being wet from the mist of the water. This trail was SO COOL! Maybe my favorite. It followed the river on a metal path at the base of the mountain and over the water. It ended at the base of the biggest waterfall and you were smothered by the strong, cold mist that came from the drop. Super fun experience.
- Johnston Canyon Upper Falls - intermediate if you didn't do the lower falls yet but strenuous if you had done lower falls. This was straight up to the top of the falls. No messing around here. Up was the only direction. I could have actually done without this one, but you almost can't do one without the other.
- Tangle Falls - a looking point right as you get into Jasper National Park. It's worth stopping and it's very close to the ice field. Check out both. Stunning. There was a Glacier Skywalk close as well, but it was closed when we passed it on the way in and when we passed it on the way out. Looks cool, though.
- Athabasca Falls - Jasper - gorgeous waterfall just off the highway. There's a short slight hike but it's a paved pathway and fairly easy to maneuver.
- Sunwapta Falls - Jasper - right off the street, also paved. The lower falls you do have to go down some stairs but also fairly easy to get around.
- Maligne Canyon - Jasper - this one was long and had several different paths. You could follow the river on the lower path or it broke off into a higher elevation that gave you a view of the canyon that really cannot be beat. We met our first deer on this trail. Almost ran right into her, actually. She gave us the side-eye as we passed and we kept our distance as best we could without going off the cliff. She was very unhappy we were there.
- Mirror Lake - between Banff and Jasper - this was the most pleasant find as we initially stopped for a potty break on the way. It's just a pull-off but this lake was like glass. It is by far my favorite picture I've taken to date and absolutely worth the stop to stomp around the lake and be surrounded by such pristine wilderness.
Mountains Make Their Own Weather
After leaving Johnston Canyon, we were traveling down The Bow Valley Parkway (slowly, might I add) since this is the place to look for wildlife - most especially bear, elk and wolves. I noticed it started to sprinkle just a tad and then the leaves started to fall off the trees. Not just any trees, either. These were old pine trees that went up as far as the eye could see. Before we knew it, I punched the gas and barely missed three fallen trees bouncing off the road behind our back bumper. I could not get out of there fast enough and wanted to speed, but I also wanted to respect that this road is known for big animals and I didn't want to come face to face with an angry mama bear after I hit her cub by being reckless. A tornado had struck the area. I had brought the Texas winds with me. It became one of the better stories of the trip only after I got back to the condo and handled a bottle of wine in the hot tub to ease my strained nerves. We ended up on that parkway several more times during the trip as it provided numerous opportunities to see the wild in the wild.
Jerky Is and Will Always Be A Great Snack...For Everyone
We saw a black bear on the way to Jasper playing in the creek. That highway is FILLED with black bears in early June so really follow the speed limit here. And do not get out of your car!!! I pulled over (not a soul on the road) and had the passenger roll the window down to get a good photo. She had been eating jerky so her hands had to have been very potent. She sticks the camera out of the window and guess who starts to walk our way? Thank the Lord for zoom lenses. If you're going to be taking wildlife pictures, you really need to have a 70-200mm or greater. #safetyfirst
Fairmont Luxury
This hotel chain has a grasp on this region like no other. I truly felt like I had gone back in time 400 years to some elegant castle and yet it had all the modern luxuries we've come to expect, including a covered parking garage. The grounds, the landscaping, the spa...everything was top notch. This is a must see even if you only have time to stop in for lunch. Both Fairmont Banff Springs as well as Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise will not let you down.
Gondolas
There are two gondola rides in the Banff area. We took the Banff Gondola, which was absolutely spectacular. There's no time limit at the top and there is an option to hike up the hill instead, but the ride is worth it. And they have mountain goats at the top along with chipmunks and pikas. We didn't have a hard time getting a reservation the day before but there's no way we would have gotten one the day of. Plan accordingly. Lake Louise had a gondola as well, but we ran out of time for that one. It apparently rolls right over a grizzly trail. I'm still bummed we ran out of time. #vacationremorse